Cynergy:
Paint/body Prep Instructions
Wash all parts thoroughly with warm soapy water, wiping surface with a rag to remove any release agent residue that may still be on the parts and could prevent adhesion of primers/sealers.
 
Sand gelcoat surface of body with coarse sandpaper. Our gelcoat is hard by nature.
Gelcoat is usually 7-8 mil film thickness on carbon parts and 10-11 mil for fiberglass parts.
 
Please take care with Ultra-Lite carbon bodies. Ultra-Lite bodies can take a significant load over a large area (roof or hood, etc) but cannot withstand localized force (avoid poking with scribes, metal putty knives, even resting on saw horses with anything protruding up, etc). Sanding with orbital DA sanders is not recommended on corners and radiuses of the bodies as the actual part thickness of the body is very thin.
 
An epoxy sealer is recommended to seal body prior to your desired paint procedure.
Please call with any questions or concerns. Carbon Fiber or Ultra-Lite bodies are a serious investment for any racing team and we want to make sure your paint job will last.
 
Tech Support phone # (519) 245-0016 or email: info@cynergycomposites.net
CYNERGY COMPOSITES RESIN REPAIR KITS
INSTRUCTIONAL SHEET
 Included in your kit:
 
Resin
Metal tape
Hardener
Carbon/fiber glass
Mixing cups
Brushes
Mask
Acetone
Latex Gloves
Pink peel-ply
Pig Hair Roller
Sand paper
Stir Sticks & Scissors
Stir Sticks & Scissors
Instructional Sheet
 
Prepare a clean work area and lay out your resin repair kit so all items and tools are easily accessible to help the repair go smoothly.
 
Wear mask and gloves for safety. Make sure that you are working in a clean and well vented area that is free of open flames. It would be wise to wear an apron to save your clothing.
 
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL TIM HODGINS 1-519-245-0016
 
ASSESS DAMAGE:
If you have been able to keep some of the damaged pieces, you will need to fit the pieces back together with metal tape.
 
Put the tape on the outside of the pieces.
Flip the part over, carefully.

"V" out the crack(s), with 3" sander or die-grinder with sanding-drum with 40 grit coarse paper.

Feather the crack edge back approx. 1.5" from each side, resulting in a 3" wide feathered area over crack.
 
PREPARE YOUR FIBERS:
Pre cut all your fibers so when resin is mixed you can just place in fibers and apply resin (time is of the essence when the resin is mixed).
A proper repair "laminate" should be built as a "reverse pyramid".
Narrow strips placed in first, in the valley of the crack, and then put the strips in gradually wider, building up laminate thickness, so the last layer is touching only the original "undamaged" part.
 
Start with:
(2" wide x "length of crack") Carbon Fiber,
(4" wide x "length of crack") Carbon Fiber
(6" wide x "length of crack") Carbon Fiber
(8" wide x "length of crack") Carbon Fiber
 
*Woven Fiberglass (if necessary.)
 
* If damaged area is on a "wheel lip" or "front skirt" or "rocker" or any part of the car that might need more durability add 2 X Extra layers of woven fiberglass and stagger them in lay-up (e.g. 2nd and 4th , etc.)
 
***Last Layer must be "Peel Ply" (which is the pink/purple fabric that has the same texture as parachutes) make it + 3" larger length & width than final layer of Carbon or Fiberglass. Peel Ply must be removed after resin is cured.
 
REPAIR:
Once you have cut all material (fibers) for repair, scuff/sand entire back side of damaged part +2" larger than the Peel Ply (last layer of repair lay-up). This prepares surface for new resin to bite into existing cured resin/fibers. Wipe entire scuffed/sanded area with "acetone" and a clean rag. (If any oil/grease/residue comes onto rag, keep wiping with clean rags until no residue gets on rags when wiping**any contaminants on part will affect the adhesion of the resin.)
 
** Not sure which resin you have** Vinyl Ester or Epoxy???

The original repair kits that our customers stocked were vinyl ester (as that is the resin that our bodies are made from-but not everyone has a Cynergy body) Five Star, Roush and Hairy Glass use Epoxy Resin Systems. Epoxy and Vinyl Ester will stick to each other; just scuff/sand area really well.
Mixing Ratio for Vinyl Ester is 1% hardener:
 
**Please double check that you are going to use the correct resin**
Fill Cup ¾ full with Vinyl Ester Resin, and then put 10 cc (approx) of small clear tube of catalyst (hardener)

**Please note:
LG Builder kit has 60cc tube of catalyst
SM Racer kit has 15cc tube of catalyst
Please double check that you are going to use the correct resin
 
Mixing Ratio for Epoxy is 2:1 resin to hardener.

-Fill Cup just over ½ full with resin, then fill to ¾ full with hardener
 
Please call if unsure of mixing ratio.
 
Thoroughly mix resin, just when you think you have mixed enough, mix it more.
 
Take brush and evenly apply resin to the complete repair area before you set any fibers in.

Set in the first layer of fiber (2" strip) exactly over the cracked area - one inch on one side, one inch on the other side. Evenly wet out fiber with resin.
 
Set in second layer of fiber (4" strip). Same as first layer: exactly half/half over crack. Evenly wet out again.

Take roller and completely roll the wet fibers. Roll every 2 layers.

Finish lay-up as you cut the fibers - building the reverse pyramid, rolling every 2nd layer.

Put on the "Peel Ply" - CAUTION - Peel Ply doesn't conform to body shapes and round corners like the fibers do. You might have to cut peel ply into sections to evenly cover your lay-up. Please overlap Peel Ply so it covers every inch of your lay-up. **It holds the fibers in place and prevents air from creeping into lay-up** It doesn't have to look "pretty" as you are going to rip it off and throw in garbage.
 
Vinyl Ester does not need heat to cure, but Epoxy needs heat.
 
Heat lamp, heat gun (on "LOW") and even the afternoon is sufficient. I hour of heat should be sufficient. "DO NOT" point heat directly at repair, just in the vicinity. Just keep checking repair, resin will go from wet to tacky (where you can leave a fingerprint in resin), then tacky to gummy, then gummy to hard. Once resin is hard you can remove peel ply and all metal tape from front. The resin reacts funny to the adhesive of metal tape-resin might still be gummy there. Remove tape and let it breathe-it will be fine. Body shop will have to do body filler repair to front of panel before paint.
 
Resin will be hard after a couple of hours but will need 24-48 hrs to totally cure out.
 
 
Please direct technical questions to:
Cynergy Composites Inc.
info@cynergycomposites.net
or 1-519-245-0016